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      <h1 class="post-title">2019夏末呼伦贝尔行(2)：敖鲁古雅、老鹰嘴、临江镇</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2019-10-25 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
            </div>
          <span class="more-meta"> 约 1797 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 4 分钟 </span>
        <span id="busuanzi_container_page_pv" class="more-meta"> <span id="busuanzi_value_page_pv"><img src="/img/spinner.svg" alt="spinner.svg"/></span> 次阅读 </span>
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    <div class="post-toc" id="post-toc">
  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
  <div class="post-toc-content always-active">
    <nav id="TableOfContents">
  <ul>
    <li><a href="#第二日">第二日</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#敖鲁古雅驯鹿之乡">敖鲁古雅驯鹿之乡</a></li>
        <li><a href="#莫尔道嘎森林公园">莫尔道嘎森林公园</a></li>
        <li><a href="#老鹰嘴">老鹰嘴</a></li>
        <li><a href="#中俄分界额尔古纳河">中俄分界额尔古纳河</a></li>
        <li><a href="#室韦临江">室韦临江</a></li>
      </ul>
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    <div class="post-content">
      <h2 id="第二日">第二日</h2>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y5lnomWBd9.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 第二日路书</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="敖鲁古雅驯鹿之乡">敖鲁古雅驯鹿之乡</h3>
<p>从额尔古纳北行，就从辽阔的牧区进入小兴安岭林区，画风为之一变。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4CJtk6jff.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 前往林区</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>先去了一家鹿苑，蓄了梅花鹿与驯鹿。主人多半是蒙古或鄂温克人，道旁用木头垒了人偶。这类人偶在这些信仰萨满的民族中很流行。济州岛有蒙古后裔，也用石头垒了这样的人偶。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4CDe0wp19.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 敖鲁古雅人家</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4CL5s2s10.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 一个驴</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>花30文买了两盆鹿食进园，迎面撞见一头溜出来觅食的梅花鹿，闻到鹿食味便追着盆讨。全场人围着恩宠它一个，其他鹿都老实趴棚里啃草。后来主人看不过，把它逮了回去，“吃太多了，会撑坏”。</p>
<p>驯鹿都懒散地趴在另一处，闻到苔藓味，就凑过来吃。驯鹿个头确实大得离谱，逼近时把鹿角往眼前一亮，很有压迫感。还边吃边喷气。但实际上怂得很。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4CDurWm4e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 一个白驯鹿</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4CLlzxJ3f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 懒洋洋的驯鹿</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FKvC0X9b.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 个头比较小的，一个驯鹿</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>、</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FEf7tX45.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 拒绝嗟来之食（吃饱了）的驯鹿</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<div class="admonition note"><p class="admonition-title">说起来</p>
<p>近年有学者考证，说鲜卑就是驯鹿的意思。说“西伯利亚”=“鲜卑利亚”就忍了，“鲜卑”=“驯鹿”？？</p>
</div>
<h3 id="莫尔道嘎森林公园">莫尔道嘎森林公园</h3>
<p>折向西北，往莫尔道嘎。有个莫尔道嘎森林公园。定价勇猛，一人150，另加小火车100文。票房工作人员在热烈聊天，门口停车场稀稀拉拉几部车。呼伦贝尔一年旅游季也就三个月，旺季生意尚且如此，全年营收可想而知。还不如免费了，旁边造收费露营地。</p>
<p>我们花10文在门口买了盆菇娘果，扬长而去。</p>
<p>说到菇娘果，也就东北有。呼伦贝尔有几个地方专门种这个，所以价钱很低。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FK85Rb75.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 接近林区</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FRYuhbf1.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 莫尔道嘎森林公园大门</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>莫尔道嘎往前是一片林场。一大片白桦林，旁边修了木栈道。随便走走，深不可测。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FQN24ob0.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 白桦林</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FKvn7de3.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 白桦林</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FYbm9bd9.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 白桦林旁的林场大队</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>沿途的林中小路随处可见空无一人的电动助力车。司机说，这就是附近居民进林子挖药材去了，芍药之类。早些年家家户户挖药材，收购价也高，很多人都发了。现在政府严管盗挖，少多了，就这么偷偷摸摸地弄。</p>
<div class="admonition note"><p class="admonition-title">一点发现</p>
<p>这里的房子都用蓝色玻璃钢做屋顶。本以为是萨满教长生天崇拜的意思。司机说：</p>
<div class="admonition quote">
  <p>哪儿啊，政府强制弄的，好大一笔钱呢。</p>
</div>
<p>哦，这样。</p>
</div>
<h3 id="老鹰嘴">老鹰嘴</h3>
<p>跳过森林公园，抄小路去老鹰嘴。在旅游文宣里，老鹰嘴被描绘成鲜花遍地、芳草如茵、山丘如画的东北小瑞士。然而通往景点的路特别难走。这是一条以往林场运原木的砂土路，多年下来已被压成洗衣板一般横棱密布，硬化后颠得人怀疑人生。搓衣板路后面，又接了一段波点泥坑路，车子躲坑时左晃右摇。</p>
<p>如今林场不伐木了，这条搓衣板路就成了自驾客的最爱。至于木头从哪里来，司机说，都从俄罗斯进口。若是跑去口岸蹲着，隔三差五就能看见大车载着原木开进来。​</p>
<p>这种路交给我自驾开的话，我肯定是拒绝的。​好好活着不好吗？</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FVsZrp27.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 前往老鹰嘴</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FPbKH0da.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 油菜花</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>老鹰嘴其实是河边一块岩石，并无奇特之处。但这里正好把阿尔卑斯样的缓坡、层林、麦田、油菜和清流深谷结合在一起。一队普拉多为了正面拍石头，专门绕到河谷涉水渡到沙洲上。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FX4tQOae.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 老鹰嘴和河谷沙洲</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FXbaTLe1.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 老鹰嘴对岸</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FPxJQa5e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 老鹰嘴河谷</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4FWdLFHed.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 捏个车</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>我们没下到河谷中，没能拍到老鹰嘴的正面。不过也并不遗憾。</p>
<h3 id="中俄分界额尔古纳河">中俄分界额尔古纳河</h3>
<p>再往前，就看到一条宽阔的大河对岸，都是连绵的高山。那就是中俄界河额尔古纳河。对岸只有青山绿草，而中国这边要丰富得多，有连片的小麦，缓冲带里成群的牛马。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4G8Y1tZa7.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 中俄界河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>篱笆就是缓冲界限，不能越过去。红色的牌子就是界标。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4G979v9c7.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 中俄界河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4G7Vtbn9d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河旁的小麦田</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4G8728J2d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河旁的小麦田</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4G8dotf4d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 小麦田</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>中国人的种族天赋在界河两岸展现无遗。真是地无遗肥，能种庄稼的都种上。司机讲，他的朋友就有跑俄罗斯承包土地种地的，还有承包山头带中国人付费打猎的。对岸空间大，利用不足，中国人跑过去跟挖到金一样。​</p>
<h3 id="室韦临江">室韦临江</h3>
<p>临江也是近年被旅游带火的一个民宿集散地。一大堆砖石包木头的仿木屋，起着俄罗斯的名字，修各种洋葱顶。​镇上到处都是马粪，当地人牵着马四处揽客骑马遛弯。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4G9CXUqb6.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 临江镇的民宿</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>小镇临河背山，山坡上开着野花。清晨上山，能远望整个小镇。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4G9J53Ge0.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 临江镇后山坡</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">吃</p>
<p>进入林区​，吃的东西就主要是东北菜了。地三鲜之类。</p>
</div>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">特产</p>
<p>呼伦贝尔的经济作物主要是油料作物，比如油菜、向日葵。央企每年收购很多，在市面上以“呼伦贝尔芥花油”、“呼伦贝尔葵花油”的名目卖。牛羊肉往东北、帝都卖。牛奶原本也​卖得不错，内资外资都跑去建厂收奶。但是慢慢都做坏了——收购商对奶农原奶质量控制得很严，收上去后自己却往里掺水。一来二去，雀巢就退出了。不过当地商牧户还是会留下不错的鲜奶做成奶条、奶皮之类。实地买一点还是可以的。</p>
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<p>[待续]</p>
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